As tenkara anglers, we like to push the boundaries and experiment with different techniques and tackle. One area of our sport that particularly lends itself to R & D is using unconventional materials for lines. While early lines may have been constructed of furled or braided horse tail or silk, commercially available modern lines have evolved to include furled nylon, furled Kevlar, furled polyester, level fluorocarbon, braided fluorocarbon, titanium wire, and tapered nylon and even some secret proprietary materials. And individual anglers have taken it upon themselves to push the envelope even further by experimenting with floating PVC lines, braided level nylon, level nylon, Dacron backing, knotted level line and more. My friend Dennis exclusively fishes with a rainbow-colored line made from kite string!
Recently, I was talking to a friend in Argentina who is heading to the Andes soon to fish some lakes with his tenkara rod and was wondering about which lines to use to get down deep. I recommended a sinking line like Airflo’s Poly Leader and we also discussed some other tungsten-impregnated lines. But then the question arose, “how would you attach it to the lilian?” With their softer “rubbery” finish and thicker butt section, they don’t really work with the typical knot used to attach level lines (they’re too soft and aren’t slick enough to cinch tight and would create a lot of bulk). I immediately though of a method I’ve been using for years that I thought would work and described it to him. Then, I realized anyone out there who is experimenting with off-the-beaten-path materials for tenkara lines might find it useful so I made this brief video on how to do it.
As you can see, it’s very simple. If you can tie an overhand knot, you can tie this. And the girth-hitch connection is not only strong, but quick and easy to attach and detach. Some might wonder if the more supple Dacron creates a “hinging” effect. It doesn’t. The transfer of energy goes from the rod tip right through the Dacron to the main line seamlessly. In fact, this isn’t even my idea. This type of connection has been used in commercial lines for years so it’s tried and true. The only thing that might be original about it is my DIY technique.
The title of this article might be a little misleading. You probably can’t tie absolutely ANY line using this knot (for example, a stiff and springy material like titanium wire), but for any line that’s supple, it will work. And that inclues using it as an alternative to your conventional level fluorocarbon lines. I just think it’s a more convenient connection. So give it a try on your next line experiment and let me know what you think.
0:39= it could be any line you want
What are you? The equivalent of a tenkara Jedi master? Talk about mind opening!
Great post! Your friend from Argentina surely appreciates this one! 😉
LOL Dario! Well, originally, I was just going to make a quick video for you, but figured other people might find the same connection useful so I decided to post it. Good luck in the Andes and let me know how the T-line works out. Pictures please!
Jason, thank you so very much for making the video. Making a simple overhand knot with both lines at the same time is a much more simple and elegant solution to this minor problem than the way I have been doing it – girth hitching the backing loop to the T-line. I was putting a stopper knot in the T-line anyway, so your way is a much cleaner, quicker and a lot easier solution to the problem….Thanks again….Karl.
Great idea and thanks Jason. A suggestion: When removing a girth hitch, I never hold the rod below the lillian-rod attachment, but hold the lillian below the girth hitch thereby eliminating any tension that might result(its happened to me) at the lillian/rod tip connection as I pulled the girth hitch free.
Great, simple method. I like it!’
But then the question arose… Is it true master? Is it true that there isn’t any ‘hinging’ effect to it? is the force running in me master and from my arm to my laser rod and line and fly??
(Star Wars music score on the background)
Darío. ves demasiadas peliculas de Star Wars!
Ignoring the visibility problem, would 12# fluorocarbon work diameter-wise as a level line?
Hi Frank. Yes. And I would consider either a sighter or this stuff for visibility: https://www.tenkaratalk.com/2018/09/tenkara-eso-line-wax/
Can this be used with level line?
Hi Ruben. Yes!
Great idea, the quick change is my favourite thing about tapered line! Wondering if I could just use more level line (instead of Dacron) to achieve this? Curious if I can avoid buying another product 🙂
Hi Paul, more level line won’t work because it’s too slippery and stiff. It won’t stay cinched on the main line. You need something limp so it cinches tight and won’t come out during casting. You can ask any fly shop for some scrap or old backing and you can probably get a free lifetime supply! It’s worth it to use the right material. Otherwise, you’ll get frustrated. Let me know how it works out if you try it!